Rim-Rim-Rim and Cremation Canyon

November 28-December 4, 2024

Planning and Preparation

I have gotten into the habit of traveling Outside of Alaska every winter for a backpacking trip, and this year the Grand Canyon was calling. It had been a long summer of work and, frankly, the rain was getting to me. The high desert sounded so appealing.

I had considered GCNP in the past, but didn’t have much experience with arid environments, although I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the rattlesnakes and scorpions hibernate for the winter. Game on.

I knew I wanted to do a rim-rim-rim trip after seeing a friend post some photos about their backpacking adventure a few years ago. The main corridor trails between the north and south rims are shaped like a “Y,” with the North Kaibab Trail splitting into the Bright Angel Trail and the South Kaibab Trail, just before crossing the Colorado River, heading towards the South Rim. Most of the Bright Angel Trail would be closed through the winter, as would Bright Angel Campground at the bottom of the canyon, on the north side of the river.

These closures would mean I would either have to hike a little over 14 miles on the first day, with an elevation loss of 4800′ to get to Phantom Ranch and a gain of more than 1,600 to then make it to Cottonwood Campground, or figure out another plan. Fourteen miles with a pack full of gear and food for 6 days didn’t sound like fun, so I called the Ranger Station to see if they had any suggestions.

The Grand Canyon backcountry is divided into use areas. Each use area has an overnight capacity based upon the size of the area, the number of suitable and available campsites, its ecological sensitivity, its management zoning, and its use history. Use areas range in size from several hundred acres to several thousand acres. Each zone is color coded to indicated difficulty (taking into account the terrain, remoteness and facilities available).

The Ranger suggested I spend a night on each end of my trip in Cremation Canyon, an area designated as “Primitive,” with dispersed camping and limited available permits. I would have to walk two miles east on the Tonto Trail to camp, then return over those same two miles to the main trail. This would add 8 miles overall, since I would be staying one night on the way out and one night on the way back. Breaking up the hike between Cottonwood and the South Kaibab Trailhead would allow me to spend a couple of my 5 nights in a rarely traveled area.

I’m not sure if it was because all of the closures had scared people away or because it was less busy time, but had no problem getting permits for the end of November/beginning of December, well after the mid-June lottery application period. The popular times for the main corridor trails are spring and fall, as the summer temps can make the canyon fatally hot. The reverse temperature inversion in the canyon means that the bottom can be 20 degrees warmer than the rim.

The North Rim access roads and facilities typically shut down after November 30, eliminating the chance of seeing any folks coming down from that side. It is important to mention that if you straddle this time period, the permit process is a little more involved, requiring booking the November and December dates at Cottonwood separately. See “Just the Tips” at the end of this trip report for specifics on GCNP permitting.

I settled on a 5-night itinerary:

Then it was a countdown to November!

Rim To Rim To Rim AllTrails Link:

Just The Tips:

1. Instead of flying into Phoenix, opt to fly into Flagstaff. I’ll be doing that next time instead of making the 3 hour drive each way.
2. If you are flying in, pre order your stove fuel and other supplies online from Sportsman’s Warehouse in Phoenix or Flagstaff. I found this to be quick and easy.
3. Be aware that your tracking devices and phone may not be able to get a satellite connection in some of the narrow canyons. Tracking may get wonky, as the vertical walls can cause a location ping, hundreds of feet above or below you.
4. Permitting for the Grand Canyon can be confusing. It is best to apply for the lottery, which opens based on the month of travel and is available for application on the 16th of the month, in the 5th month prior to your trip. For example, a September Trip lottery application period would open April 16. See this article for more information about getting your Grand Canyon permit.
5. Give yourself more than one night at Cottonwood Campground to allow for a side trip to Chimik’yana’kya Deya’ (Ribbon Falls) or a day hike to the North Rim, plus a rest day. I found 3 nights at Cottonwood to be perfect.
6. If hiking rim to rim to rim in the winter, know that there are no services at and no access to the North Rim. You will be one of the few people in the area, far from help. Bring hiking poles and microspikes in case of snow. Evaluate your abilities and comfort with heights honestly before traveling this stretch of trail.
7. Carry plenty of water and a water filtration system. Don’t drink unfiltered water. It can contain bacteria even if it looks clean. Be sure to dry out your filter when you get home.
8. Get to the park early. The entrance gets extremely backed up with traffic beginning mid-morning.

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