The day had finally come! I had arrived in Phoenix the afternoon prior, picked up my rental car and drove north. I left the 80-degree heat and arrived in Flagstaff 3 and 1/2 hours later. I was now at an elevation just under 8,000′ and it was a chilly 35 degrees. I stayed in one of the cleanest and most comfortable hotels I’d ever experienced, and wished I had brought my swimsuit so I could have used their indoor pool. I highly recommend the Best Western Pony Inn and Suites for an overnight in Flagstaff.

After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, I aired up my vehicle tires (the change in temperature and elevation created a low tire pressure warning) and headed an hour and a half north, a drive with incredible views and plenty of wildlife, including a few elk herds crossing the road. Arriving at the park gate mid-morning, the line was not too long, but it is wise to get there as early as possible to avoid the crowds, especially if you are visiting during the peak seasons.

I found a parking spot close to shuttle terminal and triple checked my pack. I located a fountain to fill up my water bottles and filter bladder. There were no water stations or sources between here and Cremation Canyon and then Phatom Ranch, so I had to carry enough water for all day, overnight and the next morning. I probably overdid it with hauling nearly two gallons, but better safe than sorry! I have a terrible paranoia about running out of water and carrying an extra 12 or so lbs. downhill wouldn’t be so bad.

I had everything I needed and was ready to go. The shuttles run on a regular schedule throughout the year. Click HERE to see the current shuttle schedule. I boarded the Orange Eastbound bus and disembarked at the South Kaibab Trailhead about 20 minutes later. It was time to hike!

I was in absolute awe. I had never visited the Grand Canyon before and now I was about to be one of the less than 1% of the 5 million annual visitors to travel below the rim; not to mention one of the tiny fraction of the 1% of people who traverse the canyon rim to rim to rim. I couldn’t contain my excitement and, even though my backpack was more than 50lbs, I jogged my way down the wide path, past throngs of day hikers and numerous overlooks where the views continued to get better and better.

Descending past Ooh-ahh Point, Cedar Ridge, and Skeleton Point, I eventually passed all of the day hikers and was traveling alone. The mule pack train was moving uphill on their daily afternoon trek from Phantom Ranch to the South Rim stables. These pack trains haul all of the supplies and refuse to and from the ranch at the bottom of the Canyon.

Before I knew it, I had descended the ~3200′ to Tip Off and the Tonto Trail Intersection. Tip off has a covered shelter and composting toilet, sitting about 1600′ above the Colorado River. The Tonto Plateau is a wide bench at 4000,’ on the south side of the Colorado, running east/west, and its namesake trail travels a total of 95 miles. It is here I would be turning to the east and traveling 2 miles to the BJ9 Cremation Canyon zone.

For the two miles I traveled, the Tonto trail winds through scrub brush and century plants, descending about 400′, with ample opportunity to find marine fossils and interesting rocks. After 4 and a half hours and 6.5 miles of trekking from the trailhead, with a backpack full of water (I hadn’t even made a dent in it), I was ready to find a spot to drop my pack and set up my camp chair. The adrenaline was wearing off and I was getting tired. I was ready for dinner and some coffee.

I knew I was looking for a sign that would delineate the Cremation Canyon area, but before I saw it, I came across an obvious campsite very close to the 2-mile mark on my gps. I figured I had just passed the sign on one of the little side trails that spur off of and back to the main trail through the brush. Maybe I was so tired that I had just walked right past it. This campsite had a really cool rock overhang and a view across the canyon toward Zoroaster Temple, a picturesque peak above Clear Creek. I decided I would stop here. (On the return trip I found that I had only been about .2 miles from the sign)

I set up my tent under the overhang, before having a vision of it collapsing on me during the night, and quickly moved out to the open area, away from the half cave. When my camp was organized and to my standards, I put on some warm clothes, sat in my camp chair and made myself a Ramen Bomb (ramen and powdered mashed potatoes) and some strong coffee. I silently took in the view and couldn’t have been any happier to be miles away from the nearest person. I watched the sun set and then settled into my tent, making it through only a handful of pages in my book before falling into a deep and restful sleep.

Rim To Rim To Rim AllTrails Link:

Just The Tips:

1. Instead of flying into Phoenix, opt to fly into Flagstaff. I’ll be doing that next time instead of making the 3 hour drive each way.
2. If you are flying in, pre order your stove fuel and other supplies online from Sportsman’s Warehouse in Phoenix or Flagstaff. I found this to be quick and easy.
3. Be aware that your tracking devices and phone may not be able to get a satellite connection in some of the narrow canyons. Tracking may get wonky, as the vertical walls can cause a location ping, hundreds of feet above or below you.
4. Permitting for the Grand Canyon can be confusing. It is best to apply for the lottery, which opens based on the month of travel and is available for application on the 16th of the month, in the 5th month prior to your trip. For example, a September Trip lottery application period would open April 16. See this article for more information about getting your Grand Canyon permit.
5. Give yourself more than one night at Cottonwood Campground to allow for a side trip to Chimik’yana’kya Deya’ (Ribbon Falls) or a day hike to the North Rim, plus a rest day. I found 3 nights at Cottonwood to be perfect.
6. If hiking rim to rim to rim in the winter, know that there are no services at and no access to the North Rim. You will be one of the few people in the area, far from help. Bring hiking poles and microspikes in case of snow. Evaluate your abilities and comfort with heights honestly before traveling this stretch of trail.
7. Carry plenty of water and a water filtration system. Don’t drink unfiltered water. It can contain bacteria even if it looks clean. Be sure to dry out your filter when you get home.
8. Get to the park early. The entrance gets extremely backed up with traffic beginning mid-morning.