I started the day by packing up my sleeping bag, pad and inflatable pillow while thinking about how my choice of sleeping gear had been perfect so far. I’ve had the same sleeping bag for over a decade, an absolute workhorse. I use my REI -20 down bag for all seasons in Alaska (except for maybe July). It gets regular washes and tumble drys, probably against the care instructions, which is likely why it continues to spring small holes, allowing feathers to find themselves free, often leading to what I’ve dubbed a “tent snowstorm.” Anyway, it’s a great bag and probably has many hundreds of nights of use… I bought it second hand in 2013.

My sleeping pad was new purchase, and this was its maiden voyage. I wouldn’t usually take the risk of bringing new gear on a trip of this length, but I brought a patch kit just in case. The Nemo Tensor all season wide is the greatest thing that has ever happened to my camping. Lightweight and super warm, this side sleeper is sleeping great!

I collected my tent items by the door to make everything easy to pack then made up some oatmeal and coffee. I still had so much food. Multitasking is one of my fortes, so I was fed and packed up within an hour, starting out of camp up towards the guys’ spot to drop off my filtration system. I wouldn’t be needing it for the last two days, as there is running water at Phantom Ranch and nothing to filter after that. Once again, I would just have to haul enough for that night and the next day. No big deal. By now I basically a pack mule myself!

Slowly descending to “The Box,” I followed the curves of the canyon, which eventually spit me out at Phantom Ranch. It was a cool morning, great for walking downhill quickly, and I saw I had made the 7.2 mile, -2000′ descent in just a few hours. Pretty good after a 13-mile day prior; I wasn’t even a little bit sore.

Phantom Ranch was still closed, but I was able to fill up my water bottles, now the repaired one springing a pinhole leak at the bottom. I set it into a gallon Ziplock bag and hoped for the best. I was sure I’d have at least a liter left, and with my other two-liter bottle, full, I would be fine. I’d learned it wasn’t summer desert hot this time of the year, so I decided the nearly two gallons I had carried down on day 1 was a bit excessive. I stamped my permit with the “Mailed by Mule” stamp that people put on their postcards and then crossed out mule and wrote “Rebecca.” I would have to settle to send the postcards from the South Rim.

Crossing the Colorado River on the Kaibab Suspension Bridge, “The Black Bridge,” I spent some time to really admire the engineering and design, before entering the 105′ long tunnel and out the other side. I had less than 4 miles and +1800′ to go for the day, most of the climbing on the way up to Tip Off on the Tonto Plateau. I felt extraordinarily strong and made it up to Tip Off in just over an hour. I was, as we say in the snowmachining world, hauling the mail.

I took a left, due east, on the Tonto Trail, once again in the wide scrub brush and cactus covered shelf, 1600′ above the Colorado River. The miles were still going by quickly, and before I knew it, I was at the little rock outcropping I had camped at on night one. I decided to press on, energized and curious to see what was around the next corner.

I dropped down into a mini canyon that had the most interesting, layered rock. I had seen an almost perfect marine fossil before I had descended down to this streambed. I started to climb up the other side and turned back to take another look at this geological wonder.

There it was. The sign. I had been 2/10 of a mile short the first night, a stone’s throw away. I spotted a perfect little clearing, out the flash flood zone, but still down in this protected canyon. I didn’t even bother to set up my tent. There wasn’t enough traffic here to draw in the mouse population, so I was going to take tonight to cowboy camp under the stars. By 330pm I was making dinner and coffee, marveling at this cozy spot far, far away from people and responsibilities.

All of sudden a movement caught my attention. It was a massive mule deer buck coming down the trail I had not long ago started up. He didn’t seem to mind my presence, and ambled down the hill, seeming to have a slight limp and scar on his rear haunch. This 10-point beauty moved past my camp, although I didn’t notice if he continued down the canyon or along the Tonto Trail. I wondered where the closest water was.

In a state of continuous awe, I sat in my camp chair drinking coffee and examining every layer of the canyon’s walls. I thought about how many years this spot had been at the bottom of the ocean. Then I saw an odd shape. It didn’t fit in. I walked across the canyon and up the slope to where I was even with my camp. It was an old shoe. I knew it looked wrong. Something had torn it to shreds. I was going to assume mice. I carried it back over and added it to my very full gallon Ziplock bag of trash.

By 6pm it was dark and I was in my sleeping bag, pad laid down over my tent footprint, and I swore I had never been more comfortable in my life. I was warm, although there was a light breeze coming from the North. I watched the stars for hours, the Milky Way and constellations spinning above me. Next year I would definitely be bringing a tripod… no one can keep a phone still enough for a ten second exposure.

My last night in the canyon was bittersweet perfection.

Rim To Rim To Rim AllTrails Link:

Just The Tips:

1. Instead of flying into Phoenix, opt to fly into Flagstaff. I’ll be doing that next time instead of making the 3 hour drive each way.
2. If you are flying in, pre order your stove fuel and other supplies online from Sportsman’s Warehouse in Phoenix or Flagstaff. I found this to be quick and easy.
3. Be aware that your tracking devices and phone may not be able to get a satellite connection in some of the narrow canyons. Tracking may get wonky, as the vertical walls can cause a location ping, hundreds of feet above or below you.
4. Permitting for the Grand Canyon can be confusing. It is best to apply for the lottery, which opens based on the month of travel and is available for application on the 16th of the month, in the 5th month prior to your trip. For example, a September Trip lottery application period would open April 16. See this article for more information about getting your Grand Canyon permit.
5. Give yourself more than one night at Cottonwood Campground to allow for a side trip to Chimik’yana’kya Deya’ (Ribbon Falls) or a day hike to the North Rim, plus a rest day. I found 3 nights at Cottonwood to be perfect.
6. If hiking rim to rim to rim in the winter, know that there are no services at and no access to the North Rim. You will be one of the few people in the area, far from help. Bring hiking poles and microspikes in case of snow. Evaluate your abilities and comfort with heights honestly before traveling this stretch of trail.
7. Carry plenty of water and a water filtration system. Don’t drink unfiltered water. It can contain bacteria even if it looks clean. Be sure to dry out your filter when you get home.
8. Get to the park early. The entrance gets extremely backed up with traffic beginning mid morning.